The mysterious Himalayas are said to hold the key to many of life’s deeper questions. No wonder every visit commands awe and inspiration. The Har Ki Dun valley is steeped in mythological tales & gorgeous views around every corner. The path takes you through the same trail, traversed by the Pandavas while trying to reach heaven. Thereby making the most exciting part of the journey, the chance of sighting the mighty Swargarohini I, II, III from the valley of God. The month was an early May and just a week back there was news of incessant snowfall in the region adding to the thrill. We had started our journey from Dehradun in a private vehicle towards the basecamp – Sankri, almost 200 Kms. A tiny village with a handful of houses, it is a popular basecamp for many other Himalayan treks, in fact with a very prominent view of the Kedarkantha and the Har ki Dun peaks, both of which were glistening in the snow under the setting sun, by the time we reached. You will get basic accommodation here along with shops selling specific trekking items. Mind you this does not include medicines.
Our journey began quite early the next day, with an hour’s drive to Taluka, which marks the starting point of the trek. The trail is an easy walk parallel to the river under the shade of the trees. This continues to a point from where the first steep ascent for the day begins. Post a considerable huffing and puffing, we managed to reach Osla village. My travels expose me to new cultures, new sights and the most treasured part are the people. Very tired from the climb, I still had a km to walk to reach our tea-house when my last drop of water got over. Since I had already reached the village I sat down to take a few minutes of break in front of a thatched house. The valley gods had possibly heard my prayers; an old man came out of that house and offered me water. My earlier Himalayan treks had also brought me close to the most generous and helpful locals like him.
You may have heard of Osla village for the sole purpose of their temple – the Duryodhan temple which is the highlight of the village culture. Add to that a bunch of ever-smiling tiny faces, playing cricket in the temple yard, with their broken bats and little heed for the materialistic world. That pretty much sums up my first day of the trek experience.
Our next stop took us to my first experience of a haunted campsite Chilurgad. A steady ascent and descent and consistent climb will help you reach this campsite right next to the river Thamsa. The trail gives you the first peek of Har Ki Dun and you realize you are steadily moving towards it. The campsite is at a distance from the burial grounds of the local villages, hence giving rise to several local folklores. Needless to say that nothing supernatural had taken place during the stay.
Chilurgad to Kalkatiyadar, brings you right in the front of the massive Swargarohini peaks. The gorgeous campsite is surrounded by snowy peaks and you find yourself at almost a touching distance from the greatness. It is one of the prettiest campsites I have ever been to. The entire distance is if full of steep ascents and descents and moderately long trail. From here it is a day trip to the icy Har Ki Dun Valley and back. Each climb of this trail will make you sing “Stairway to Heaven”.
From there on, it was a one day of descent till Chilurgad and another day to reach Sankri. We rejoiced the end of a beautiful journey, with promises to come back for more. And that, my friend, is the magnetic & mysterious charm of the Himalayas, you cannot ignore.